How pearls made their high fashion comeback

No longer just for old aunties, royalty and your granny, pearls are reinvented by fashion and fine jewellery designers using them in cool and contemporary ways from duo pearl earrings to triple pearl rings. Who do we thank for this new style? Chanel and Lagerfeld in 2012 both turned their attention to pearls on the catwalk and Dior’s tribal double stud in 2013 certainly boosted the pearls modern makeover. Once again, their cool credentials are catapulted into the spotlight as the new signature for Gucci’s Autumn 2017 and Spring 2018 collections. Pearls are no longer just for the posh women of Henley. Pearls are Authentic I think pearls are authentic. They are witnesses to time. I see them in antique shops and secondhand shops and I often wonder what stories they have to tell. No gem has more history than pearls. I like the fact that pearls have history, given our uncertain times. Historically, pearls have been worn as symbols of wealth and power. It has been a long, long time now since pearls have just been worn by royalty and wealthy, privileged individuals. They are hugely accessible to all women and more affordable than many think. But is it the way in which pearls are being used now. Some designers are pushing the boundaries of pearl designs whilst some are just changing it up a little. With this in mind, I spoke to Damian Miles, an inspirational jeweller who offers bespoke design and always offers his customers something unique. He reveals his secret to working with pearls; “ I like using keshi and baroque pearls. Baroque pearls can offer so many design opportunities for a one of a kind design. Use baroque, ringed or a coloured pearl and you instantly have a WOW piece, often turning a piece over and over in my hand until the right design starts to materialise.” For those of you (and your customers) who don’t have an idea of design, creating a mood board is a good way to start. If you want to appeal to the millennials, delve into social media for your visual inspiration (Pinterest and Instagram). Even better get out there, connect with them and get personal. At the same time, don’t forget where pearls come from to get your creativity flowing. I think some people wildly underestimate the pearl - maybe that it lacks imagination. You need to spread the word that pearls are cool and the options with pearls are limitless. You only have to point to the infamous baroque pearl creations of Van Cleef & Arpels to witness this. Embrace Creativity Explore, create and experiment with new techniques and materials and choose those that amplify the lustre of the pearl. It’s not something that can be achieved overnight; but the challenge is worth it and it will set you apart from all the other jewellers and designers. In our tough economic times creativity and standing out from the crowd is key. Melanie Georgacopoulos is one such creative designer. Her work ‘cleverly uses the pearl’s symbolic contradictions whilst juxtaposed throughout each collection with the application of innovative techniques and a surprising use of materials.’ (Melanie Georgacopoulos, 2017). Pushing Boundaries Her pieces include diamond and pearl earrings with the pearls moving playfully inside 18 carat gold cages and most recently an intriguing double ring with lavender mother of pearl emerald. Melanie’s collections defy pearl convention. Her imagination continues to grow whilst still maintaining the pearls quality as a wearable and ageless accessory. When I ask Melanie what advice she can offer, she says: “Go for it! The key is to create something new with them - to offer a new perspective to the market, there will always be interest in exciting pearl jewellery”. I suggest another brave idea is to view the pearl in different way and focus on the irregularity and authenticity of the pearl. Highlight their organic shapes and their imperfections. Capturing the little imperfections makes them more unique and even more special for the customer. This might just be perfect answer for the millennial’s passion for individualisation. We all know the classic pearl strand and simple stud will remain a stalwart for all women. But now is the time to capitalise on the strength of the contemporary pearl revolution and push your creative skills to the max. Whatever you choose to design, make it count. Be bold and be brave. By Louise Tippey. This article first appeared in the October issue of Jewellery Focus